In August of 2019, I had the honor to deploy with ONETrack International (OTI) which is a charity focused in providing long term support to orphans in developing countries.
OTI delivers the Transition to Home model of orphan-care in developing countries. This tiny 501c3 charity has no salaried employees, no buildings or physical assets and is leading the way in diminishing the Global Orphan Crisis through eight global projects. Donations will support associated costs for textbooks, school uniforms, household and hygiene necessities, and the Transition to Home program in part or entirely. OTI commits to supporting each orphan in the program until they finish school. On average, $500 will cover an orphan's needs for an entire year; $5,000 will cover an orphan's needs for their entire childhood. ONETrackInternational.org
I was attached to a volunteer team visiting an orphanage in Zimbabwe. As the media guy, my job was to capture everything via photos and video. My teammates, Hilary and Todd, would meet me at the hotel when I arrived.
Florida
Departure was from Miami Airport where security was more interested in my bar of soap then any of the camera equipment and accessories I had packed. A long flight to Doha, Qatar (watched three full feature movies) and then a slightly shorter one to Johannesburg, South Africa. From there, my last flight would only be 90 minutes long and would take me to Harare, Zimbabwe. Before leaving, the stewardess made sure all of the overhead bins were open, (it was a small plane), then opened two canisters of pesticide and walked down the aisle to fumigate everyone and their carry on baggage.
Doha, Qatar
Harare, Zimbabwe
Once in Zimbabwe, and before I could purchase a temporary visa, my temperature is taken via laser. On my way to the hotel the driver tells me unemployment is a shocking 90%. We pass through large crowds in the city center, which he says are all folks waiting for work. We pass a large, red Coca Cola factory complex.
It's winter here and the air is cool and very dry. The sun is so unbelievably strong. I thought it would be comparable to Florida but it's not even close. We pass by markets created out of repurposed wood, with various wares spilling out onto the sidewalks. Everything here is an opportunity for recycle and resale. One vendor has turned polished paint cans into cookware. Another has converted rubber tires into a range of items from purses to plant holders. Trash is abundant along the roads and, because of the winter weather, areas of trash are burned for warmth.
The driver warns me about taking pictures amidst busy intersections as police will often be standing there to direct traffic. If they think you've taken their picture, they may ask to delete your photo or take you right to jail.
Outside of the tourist facilities like our hotel, electricity is limited. It comes on randomly, often late at night, and everyone is simply accustomed to getting up and using it when available. Also, sim cards are a way of life for anyone using a cellphone.
Bottle water is the only trusted source. Given our short window of being in country, I can't risk gastrointestinal issues. This includes eating any salad foods that may have been rinsed in local water. I mostly stick with cooked chicken and rice dishes. Nando's Chicken is the Chick Fil-A of the region that we enjoy a few times. We ate at the highly recommended Chop Chop restaurant and it was delicious. Unfortunately, they did not accept western credit cards or U.S. currency (most places will accept one or the other). We had to send our driver to exchange the money for us.
Outside of our site visit near Harare, we went to two local animal parks, the Mukuvisi Woodland and the Lion Park. The locals take great pride in their parks which drive considerable tourist dollars. We saw several lions and lionesses, a jackal, spotted pigs, antelope, zebras, wildebeast and crocodiles. As with most captive animal environments, none of them look very happy.
Chop Chop
Tallest building in the country
Highway with tree shaped comms tower
Hotel signage #spreadthelove
Mukuvisi Park: Reedbuck
Zebras and Giraffes
Crocodile
Zimbabwe Lion Park
Picturesque moment
Zimbabwe - Site Visit
Each day of the site visit presented new opportunities to digitally capture the children. Turns out the facility is also a local soup kitchen so that any child within walking distance may get a free meal, twice a day. A meal can be fresh bread and hot tea or beans and rice, depending on the resources available, but there is always something for them to eat. The facility uses water collection, solar power and maintains a healthy community garden.
The staff are knowledgeable, selfless and dignified. During one casual conversation, a staff member inquired about our evening the night before. We had dinner and drinks at the hotel, nothing fancy - meanwhile the staff member's power never came on so they just went to bed. Awkward moment but that's just the reality here.
The kids are so excited to interact with us and range from grade school to high school age. During one classroom discussion, the kids offered their desired professions after completing school. Pilot, doctor and journalist were the common answers. Twafsana said he wanted to be a photographer. So, I gave him a crash course in using the Nikon and tasked him with taking shots of his peers. He was a natural.
But it's more than just interacting with the kids. We meet facilitators who help mothers with AIDS to learn proper physical and mental care of their babies. (AIDS is still a prevalent issue in many African countries.) We meet a local group of women who have created a flourishing economy through micro loans and investments.
In the face of a corrupt government and a desperate economy, this little oasis provides informal education resources and hot meals to children. It's a sanctuary of community and hope and a better future. What an extraordinary place! By the last day, everyone is used to our presence and my camera. I took thousands of photos and these are just a sample.
We brought as a gift six new soccer balls (deflated) and a hand pump. I also delivered a gift from my niece, Madison, who made forty-four friendship bracelets for the kids. To say they were excited is an understatement.
The whole experience was incredibly inspiring for the team. Our evening debriefs were fueled by the emotions of the day and the eagerness to do more. To see such profound good happening and to have even the smallest part in it is a feeling of joy that I am very lucky to have.
At some point, the work is finished and it's time to do a little sightseeing. It's a short plane ride toward Victoria Falls, one of the wonders of the world.
We used AirBnB to find a guesthouse on the compound owned by Obert. His family lives in Harare but he works on safaris nearby so he rents the guesthouse for extra money. The compound is completely enclosed and electrified wire runs long the top of the brick wall. "To keep the elephants out," he says, "they like to destroy my garden." Inside the gate, the yard is perfectly manicured with plenty of shade and sitting areas. The guesthouse has three bedrooms and uses only solar power and a gravity feed water system. We don't see the elephants but tracks and poop tell the tales. The guesthouse is a nice place and it's not expensive. We also enjoyed the nearby watering hole, 3 Monkeys. Downtown is busy with a lot of shops and restaurants. The Shearwater Cafe is terrific, particularly the sweet potato and ginger soup. Meerkats and monkeys scavenge the empty lot across the street.
Victoria Falls is on the Zambezi River and serves as the natural border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. It's considered the widest waterfall in the world and it is spectacular. We visited the park on the Zimbabwe side and spent about 4-hours walking along its edge. Pictures and video really don't do justice to the scale. It's massive and loud and well worth the $30 entry fee. #vicfalls
The animals are protected in the park and they come close. Regular feedings happen adjacent to The Rainforest Cafe to encourage proximity.
Sweet potato and ginger soup
Team Falls Photo
Me on the edge - Photo via Todd
Todd gives perspective
LOL
Kasane, Botswana
From Vic Falls, our friend Obert helps us arrange a taxi ride to the Botswana border. The driver let Todd plug in some music and 70's Reggae was a perfect fit for the 50-mile ride. Occasional people or baboons can be seen walking along the side and traffic is very light. The sun is close to setting when a wild elephant crosses the road ahead of us and lingers just long enough for a few pictures before disappearing into the bush. The smell is unmistakable.
It's dark when we reach the Zimbabwe border and we pass through easily to Botswana immigration. After a brief passport snafu, one of the immigration officers is assigned to drive us into nearby Kasane. He's not super happy with the task and he's eager to get it over with. He stops the car just prior to the border and we all get out and take turns stepping both feet in a tray of water on the ground - a tradition from the days of hoof and mouth disease. The third lodge turns out to have vacancies which is lucky because our driver is almost out of patience. The Water Lily Lodge is cozy and has every amenity we need including a great continental breakfast. The next morning, I step out on the small balcony of my room to quickly see a wildebeast being chased by two lionesses. Wow.
The downtown area has plenty of shops and restaurants and I try some well done wildebeast. Warthogs roam everywhere with impunity as both humans and cars stop to let them pass. Botswana's economy is doing well, in part to it's thriving tourist industry. It's the only country we visited that did not charge for the entry visa.
Water Lily Lodge
Wildebeast
Warthog
Chobe National Reserve, Botswana
We book a safari through the Chobe National Park which is known for the 50,000 Kalahari elephants, among many other animals, who inhabit the area. We watch a herd of approx 200 slowly march by. Few things in this world are as adorable as a baby elephant. Antelope, warthogs, giraffes, water buffalo and hippos are spotted along the way. #chobe
Kazungala Ferry Crossing
For years, the Kazungala Ferry Crossing has served as the means of commercial and private transport between Botswana and Zambia. A massive bridge project is nearly complete but, for now, the ferry takes one tractor trailer truck and a handful of cars and pedestrians across the river at a time. The line of trucks qued up for the ferry stretches for miles even though the ferry ride takes only a few minutes.
The ferry crosses the confluence of the Zambezi and Chobe Rivers. The ferry also crosses the only international quadripoint - the intersection of four international borders - in this case, Botswana, Nambia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. We toast to the moment with libations and cheer.
Team Ferry Photo
Livingstone, Zambia
I'm not one to leave a beer unfinished even when I'm entering another country. We find a driver to take us the 50 miles to Livingstone and our first stop, The Fairmont Hotel. It's completely booked as are the next two hotels we try. We stop at The Panama and they have three rooms. It's by far the worst accommodations of the trip mainly because of the lack of mosquito netting in the room. I sleep under the bedsheet listening to them swarm around me.
For dinner, we found Flavours, which was a fantastic Indian curry restaurant. It was a festive atmosphere with a birthday party, complete with music and dancing.
The next morning, we make our way to the Fairmont for breakfast. Our intent was to get to the Devil's Pool (which is on the Zambia side) but time runs short. We pass through Zambia immigration which puts us in no man's land - between Zambia and Zimbabwe immigration. Here we find the Bridge Café which overlooks the Victoria Falls Bridge. Hilary schedules a bungee jump and we grab lunch. At one point, a cute but sneaky monkey steals half of my sandwich. Hilary takes the 111-meter leap and her screams echo through the huge canyon. So good.
Entering Zambia
Monkey with toothpaste
Fairmont Hotel
Team Cafe Photo
The view from the Cafe
View from the Bridge
The Leap
Baboon amputee with baby
Leaving Zimbabwe
We reenter Zimbabwe and fly from Vic Falls back to Harare. It's dark when we land and with our cash reserves depleted, we ask the taxi to stop at the nearest ATM. He gives us an odd look and tells us that none of the ATMs in the country will dispense money as all bank assets have been frozen. We make arrangements for him to take us to the airport the next day so we can pay him. The hotel is nice and has zero mosquitoes.
The team parts ways at the airport having forged bonds by working together and seeing these incredible sights. I'm the last to depart the country and manage to make a few friends including one guy wearing a Tampa Bay Rays shirt. Small world.
Africa, in all of it's forms, is a remarkable place and I'm so grateful to get a small glimpse. #africa
